I'm renovating a 1960s house in East Van and there are about 15 layers of paint on the trim and baseboards. What's the best way to deal with this before repainting?

Fifteen layers of built-up paint on trim is very common in East Vancouver's older character homes, and it creates a real problem. The profiles and details in the original millwork get completely buried, edges become rounded and blobby, and new paint over that thick buildup tends to chip and peel because the underlying layers are often unstable.

You have three main approaches. Chemical stripping uses paste-type removers that soften multiple layers for scraping. This preserves the wood profiles beautifully and is the best method for detailed trim with ornate moulding. Modern citrus-based strippers are low-odour and much safer than the methylene chloride products of the past. However, chemical stripping is labour-intensive and messy.

Heat stripping uses an infrared paint remover or heat gun to soften paint for scraping. This is faster than chemical methods but requires care to avoid scorching the wood. An infrared stripper is preferred over a heat gun because it heats more evenly and at a lower temperature.

However, with a 1960s home, you must test for lead paint before using any method that creates dust or fumes. Paint manufactured before 1978 commonly contained lead. Dry sanding lead paint is extremely hazardous. Send a sample to a lab or use a certified lead test kit. If lead is present, WorkSafeBC guidelines apply to any contractor performing the work, requiring containment, HEPA vacuuming, and proper disposal.

For trim that is not historically significant, the most cost-effective approach may be to remove the existing trim entirely and install new clear-grade finger-joint pine or MDF trim that can be primed and painted fresh.

Start with a lead test, then decide your approach based on whether the existing trim has architectural details worth preserving.

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